"Must see" lists

I've been asked several times about what we want to do and see first now that we are living in France. We've been more focused on settling in and learning to live here rather than seeing the sights, but I do have a list. My list is probably different from that of many other people. It doesn't include the resort cities on the Mediterranean coast, although we may get there eventually, in the winter. The short list doesn't include Paris either, although there are a lot of things there that I definitely do want to see, eventually. No, the top of my French "must see" list has always been the prehistoric cave paintings of Lascaux. 

I've recently learned that you can no longer visit the actual caves. I'm not sure to what extent it was ever possible because a lot of them are really inaccessible, but apparently there is now a recreation that appears very realistic and it avoids the destructive effects of tourism while also making them more accessible to more people. So I still want to go to Lascaux but today we went to an exhibit at the Lille science museum called "Arts & Prehistoire." It was an interesting exhibit featuring cave drawing not just from Lascaux but from many other locations across France and the rest of Europe. There were also on display many objects found in prehistoric sites, carved bits of bone, ivory, and other materials. 

One of the aspects of the exhibit that I really appreciated was the frank admission that we really can not say what any of the paintings, drawings, or objects meant to those who created them because of the vast cultural gap that exists between us and those who created them. Any theories put forth are necessarily shaped by the viewpoint of those in this era who are attempting to ascribe a meaning without any real context. Sometimes a painting of a horse, is simply a painting of a horse. 

That was our Wednesday afternoon excursion. Wednesday morning Bailey and I once again did a nice long hike around the Citadel and visited the dog park. There was just one other dog present and it clearly wanted to run and play. We had a brief but fun bit of off-leash play before continuing on our way. We also encountered a couple who were walking their own dogs but they stopped to ask if Bailey was a Malinois and wanted to meet her. They didn't speak any English and I don't speak any French, but we managed to communicate a bit. Bailey was suspicious of the man in particular but I handed him treats to offer to her and she took them nicely, making it a satisfactory encounter and good experience for all of us.

There were sniffs, play bows, and then they took off running.

Yes, poppies do still grow in Flanders fields.

These were growing as wild flowers in an area around the Citadel.

Lille is in the northern part of France. It is part of the region once known as Flanders, which together with parts of Belgium and the Netherlands has been part of France, Spain, and the Roman Empire throughout its history. I have a lot of local history to learn. 

Dog people

Bailey and I went out for a morning walk at the Citadel again Monday morning. That is likely to be a daily occurrence. We covered almost five miles (7.75 km) and went again to the dog park that we had found the day before. There was no one there but we met a women who was heading in there with her dog, a young husky mix. She spoke English so we were able to communicate quite well. Her dog was a bit nervous so they didn't stay long but after that Baily had the place to herself and I was able to let her off leash for the first time since we've been in France. The dog park had a four foot fence but beyond that there was a second fence, probably five or six feet tall. I have no concern about Bailey trying to run off now, however. She's stuck to me like super glue. 

Later in the afternoon Clay and I hit a museum and then had a couple of beers before coming home to take Bailey out again. We went to the green space right around the corner from us and met a women we had met previously with her two dogs. She had very good treats that she offered to Bailey. She spoke no English and I speak no French but somehow we were able to communicate the essential information. One of her dogs (both adopted) was a 12 year old golden who came from Italy. The other was two years old but I couldn't make out that one's original story. I introduced Bailey and told her that she was also adopted and was about two years old. Her dogs were very well behaved and Bailey sat nicely for her but was a little too mouthy taking the treats because they were so good, but the woman worked with her on it. I think I expressed the fact that we had just moved to Lille but were intending to stay. 

When we got home home Bailey ran up the stairs to greet Clay and I told him to give her a hug for being such a good girl. When I came up after her I told him that I needed one too. It felt good to have made a connection with another person, despite our language disparity. Somehow I knew that it would be a dog person. Is anyone surprised?

 

Out and about with Bailey

The first two pictures of Bailey were taken at our place in Virginia the day before we left. I didn't get them in a blog post before left and I wanted to include them because they are great pictures of her and they really illustrate the dramatic change that she's going through. Do I feel guilty about what we're putting her through? Sometimes, yes, somewhat, yes. But overall, no. She's still our dog and she's still with us. We are still committed to giving her a full life. But it will be a different life than we had in Virginia, for sure. 

All the city sights and sounds and activity can be overwhelming so we are working on acclimating her to it. We're trying to walk the fine line between going too slow and pushing her too far, too fast beyond her comfort zone. Yesterday we took her out for a beer, setting her up at a spot under our table where she could just watch everyone around us. This morning we just went out and sat in a shady spot in the street that runs past our place. This afternoon we went on a long walk that included a stop in a dog park. I didn't turn her loose in there but other dogs came up to her and they exchanged sniffs. She approached one of the other people there also. It all went very well. 

She met some other dogs and their owner on our early morning walk yesterday too. We've encountered a lot of dogs, both on and off leash on our walks with no problems. It's really unfamiliar sounds of the city, e.g., cars, bikes, e-bikes, scooters, and even the sound of wheeled luggage rolling over cobble stone streets, that seem to spook her more than anything else. 

I know that she's happy being with us but I think she'll be happier when she's more relaxed and confident in her new environment too. We will get there.

Week One

It has been a week since we arrived in Lille. I don't have anything particularly profound to say about that mini-milestone, but it's been a good week. We haven't done any tourist stuff yet because we've been busy finding our way around, getting things set up in our new place, figuring out where to shop, and setting up computers, phones, and internet connections, and of course making sure that Bailey's needs are met. She gets walks 5-6 times per day and her body has established a nice, regular elimination schedule. I've been getting her out for at least one and usually two substantial walks each day as well. She is still a bit spooked by a lot of city sights and sounds. The fact that I can't communicate with other people has meant that we stay away from other people as much as possible, and that's feeding her fear and suspicion of strangers so I need to work on that.  I may see if I can find a trainer and a class that would be good for her. 

This pile of stones was a great place to do "ups." 

Stork? heron? on one of the canals at the Citadel. 

The grounds crew, hard at work. 

Today he didn't even react when we walked past him and his herd.

There is so much physical, audio, and olfactory stimulation on the walks that she is always ready for a nap afterwards. I find that I am too, although I've never been one to sleep in the middle of the day. We are always in bed by 21:00.