Thursday, November 20, 2025

Tis the season

The Christmas season officially got underway in Lille on Wednesday with the opening of the Noel Marketplace, the street lights, and the big Ferris wheel. 

It is feeling like Christmas here now too. Although we haven't yet had a real freeze in the city, it has turned colder this week and today's rain was actually snow for a while this morning. No accumulation, thankfully, although what do I care? I don't have to shovel anything and I don't have to drive anywhere. We got a raincoat for Bailey, but I got one a size too small and we'll have to send it back and try again. She didn't mind wearing it and it kept at least part of her dry on this morning's walk.






A heavy infestation of mistletoe on come trees at the Citadel. 


I don't know what this shrub is called, but it's very pretty. 

Bailey, off leash in the field near the dog park.

Proving why she's the most fun dog.





A bit of accumulated snow Thursday morning.

Bailey's new raincoat. We sent it back today and ordered a larger size.
I couldn't believe she needed an XL.

The Ferris wheel on a sunny day.


A few pics from the market on Thursday evening.





Sunday, November 16, 2025

The past week in Lille

We got back from Rennes on Tuesday, got Bailey back home from boarding Wednesday morning, and we went for a good long walk that afternoon. Wednesday evening we went to the Lille opera to see "Ecume des Jours." It's a new opera and if it had been a straight play I would place in the genre known as theater of the absurd. I can't say that I cared for it, but that wasn't really the reason for going anyway, I mostly wanted to see the place and see the performance. I could have left at intermission, but the second part was mercifully shorter at least. We'll go again, I think they are doing a more traditional opera next.

Thursday we were back at the opera house for a concert in the grand foyer. It was much better musically, just a piano and clarinet. Both musicians were extraordinary and we enjoyed it very much. 

The Christmas markets are being set up in three locations around town. I don't really care much about Christmas but I am looking forward to the lights and the markets. We are planning another trip in early December to Cologne, Germany to see the markets there as well. 

Bailey did well with the boarding experience and we've had some good walks this week and some fun play experiences in the dog park. I ran into an English speaking dog owner there the other day and I told him that I wasn't prepared to let Bailey off leash any place other than inside the dog park. He pointed out that the entire park area was surrounded by water. With that in mind, and seeing how well she behaves with every dog she meets, and how she avoids any people, I decided to try some off-leash walking the next day. There's one stretch of the park along the canal where there's no roads nearby, fewer people, and lots of woods and open fields. I let her off leash there and she had a great time but stuck close to me and came running back whenever I called. In the big field near the dog park there's always a lot of off-leash dogs playing and she found someone to run with there as well, but she frequently came running back to check in with me. 

Today we repeated the off-leash experience. I brought a bag of treats along with me and gave her one every time she came when I called or came back to check in on her own. The only time she was more than 20 feet away was when we got to the big open field when she ran ahead to meet some other dogs. I will never have her off-leash in busy areas, but she really enjoyed the freedom and proved that she has no intention of running off, which I already pretty much knew.

The interior of the opera house.





In the opera house, the main theater is on the left, the grand foyer where the concert was held is on the right.




A very large Ferris wheel is being set up in the Grand Place. 


There is a carousel in front of the opera building and there will be some market chalets there as well.

I believe this opens next Wednesday or Thursday. 

A grey heron on one of the canals around the Citadel. I see these frequently.

My phone identified this as bayberry.


Bailey rolling in the grass, enjoying some off-leash time.

This is back in the dog park.

The vast majority of our walk, even in the park, is still on-leash. 

Thursday, November 13, 2025

Visiting Rennes

Last Saturday we took Bailey to a boarding facility (via Pet Uber) about 10k from town. We had visited the place during the week before and liked it. We booked her into a "cabin," an indoor/outdoor space with a private yard and tall, sturdy fence. I was more than a little bit anxious leaving her anywhere but this place seemed very secure and well-run. She would receive play time in the big yard with other dogs a couple times during the day. It was also much less expensive than a similar facility back in the states would have been. 

Sunday morning we hopped on the TGV (high speed train) for the trip to Rennes, the capital of Brittany. Crepes and galettes are dietary staples and the area is known for cider rather than beer or wine, although we still managed to find some good beers. We were only there a couple of days so we stayed in town, walked around a lot, took a walking tour, and just enjoyed our first travel experience. 

We got Bailey back on Wednesday morning and she was very happy to see us but she had done well at the kennel. True to form, they reported that she was shy with people but very good with other dogs. I took her on a long walk Wednesday afternoon and she slept soundly that night. Curiously, on this morning's walk she exhibited scent marking behavior that I've never seen from her before. She's always sniffed other dogs' scent marks, although she's not as obsessed with it as many are. She has always just squatted once early on our walks and done her business all at once. Today she did her initial squat and pee but she also squatted to mark after sniffing various other spots probably three or four more times during the course of our hike. That's new and I wonder if it's behavior she picked up from other dogs at the kennel. 

Flowers outside the cathedral. 

We had our first lunch at the little creperie on the right. At the end of the street is part of the old city wall.

The town is known for the number of old, timber-framed buildings that still survive. 

Part of the old city wall.


Some of the old buildings have been restored, but many have not.


Carved wood over the doorway.



This is a very good dark beer from a Bretton brewery, Brasserie Lancelot.

This picture doesn't do it justice, but this is the interior of a quirky little brasserie very near our hotel.

Some church we walked by at night. They are all Catholic. The protestant reformation never really took hold in France. My ancestors were French Huguenots (protestants), who were ran out of France.

A handmade sign in a small downtown gay bar, (homophobes out of our streets). Although Protestantism never took hold in France, reason did, and from what I've observed so far, the church is largely a historical artifact. It is not unusual to see gay or lesbian couples walking arm-in-arm down the streets. In one place we ate we sat next to a table of drag queens in the middle of the afternoon.

The downspout is a straight line, the buildings on either side waver. The guide on our tour explained that each level was built more or less independent of the level below, just sat on top of, not really well connected to the lower level. They shifted and sagged over time. It's amazing that any of them are still standing. 

Although French is the language of Brittany, they have their own language as well, which is closer to the native languages of Ireland or Wales. 

Another sign on a creperie, which translates as "Here you can lick your plate."

This is the entrance to a beautiful city park. Those cascading flowers are mums, planted in plastic bags.





I ordered a local cider at this restaurant and it was served in this small jug with a nice large "coffee" cup. Coffee is espresso and it arrived in a tiny sipping cup.

Meanwhile, back at home, Lille is setting up it's Christmas markets. The city lights have been hung but aren't lit yet. Our next planned trip is to visit the Christmas markets in Cologne, Germany early in December.

Bailey on our walk on Wednesday. She was tired and probably wanted to just sleep, but she was happy to walk with me.