More mushrooms

I'm seeing them everywhere now it seems. 

After some rain

We went through a long dry spell this summer, though it was never as bad as many places in France where there were forest fires. But, the grass turned brown, water levels were low, and even shrubs in the woods were drooping from lack of water. We've had some refreshing rains over the last couple of weeks, including one just a couple days after the Braderie, when the city was really needing a good rinse. The green grass came back very quickly, and there's been a "fruiting" of mushrooms that appeared almost overnight when that fungal mycelium finally got the necessary moisture. The city park service as a "let nature take its course" philosophy so there are plenty of fallen and rotting logs in the woods around the Citadel. Some of them are quite interesting and attractive.

Bailey is happy to be back taking our daily walks in the woods and visiting the dog park. She has several human friends now, all women. All the dogs like her, but she hasn't played with anyone lately beyond a little bouncing around and making friendly play bows. 

Grand Braderie 2026

The Braderie (pronounced "broadery") is an event that originated in Lille. The first recorded mention of it was in the 12th century. It began as a day when wealthy people allowed their house servants to sell their discarded clothing. A way of clearing out the closets, I guess, and throwing a few crumbs to the people who actually worked for a living. It sounds like origin of trickle down economics. The sale day also took on the character of a large party. The Beaux Arts museum contains paintings depicting the Braderie in Lille that look like a massive block party. It is now the largest flea market event in Europe and occurs on the first weekend of September. There are over 50 km of stalls, consisting of over 10,000 vendors, ranging from individuals selling househood goods and clothing, as well as professional antique dealers. Five hundred tons of mussels and 50 tons of fries were consumed during the event. We partook in that particular culinary tradition on both Saturday and Sunday. 

Our first Braderie experience was last year, just a month after we arrived. We bought household furniture, rugs, pots and pans, things we needed for our new unfurnished apartment. Our shopping this year had a different focus. We needed things for our large, mostly empty walls. We also wanted to start a collection of French pewter. We were very successful with both goals but it was an exhausting weekend.

Over two million people come to Lille for this event every year. Many of them come to shop, but many more come to party. Regular opening hours for bars and restaurants are suspended. Octoberfest style tables are set up in the streets around all the bars and beer flows virtually all night long. There is outdoor music, DJs, live bands, and roaming "fanfares." The police do not respond to noise complaints. 

This was all very stressful on Bailey last year. She hates crowds and the noise they produce. We planned ahead this year and sent her out to her boarding camp for the weekend. They brought her back Monday afternoon, blissfully unaware of what she had missed. 

Saturday night was the longest and the loudest. We had a good view of it from our apartment and didn't stay out late. We even slept well that night thanks to thick walls and double paned glass on the windows. The city's street crews started clean up late Sunday evening and worked through the night with amazing thoroughness and efficiency. On Monday morning the only trace of the Braderie still remaining were the piles of rented tables ready to be picked up. Bars and restaurants were busy restocking depleted supplies, but I doubt they had a lot of customers anyway. The out-of-towners went home and the locals are all quietly recuperating at home from the bacchanalia. In spite of the excessive alcohol consumption, there were only three arrests, no deaths, no shootings. People came to party and they did.

This area (above and below) near the Citadel was one of the best locations for the professional antique dealers. 

One of our first purchases was this cast iron fire back. 

The fall fair opened just the week before the Braderie. It will be here through September.

Fanfares are bands consisting of 6-12 people, mostly brass. They are not professionals, nor are they connected to any particular music program. They seem to be just amateur music enthusiasts. They are common and popular in Lille and the north of France in particular.

There was also unexpected forms of entertainment, like this woman with her marionette. 

And this guy offering people the opportunity to knock out the fascists.

And this dude "drumming" on various kitchen items.

Another fanfare performing near the city center.

There were collection points around town for empty mussel shells.

Some of the shells are used as a soil additive for gardening and others are pulverized and turned into boards for park benches.

This band performed on the street in front of our house Saturday evening. That's our house in the background. 

This one was playing outside our favorite beer bar on Sunday afternoon.

Note the trombones out the window on the second floor. There were two more on the opposite side of the street.

This is the pewter we managed to collect over the weekend.

Several of these were made in Lille.

Street scene out our bedroom window Saturday afternoon.

This is a reproduction of a tapestry that we saw in at the Cluny museum in Paris.

I'll post more pictures of things we bought when we get them hung.