The place where Bailey and I walk every day is called the Citadel. Where we walk is actually the area surrounding the Citadel, a fortress built in 1667 by Vauban after taking Lille for the French king, Louis XIV, (the "sun king"). It's known as the queen of the citadels because it was the first one built in the design of a five pointed star, which became the new standard of defensive design. The grounds surrounding the Citadel in Lille, which include peripheral defensive structures, have become a public park but the actual fortress itself is still in use by the military. It houses the headquarters for NATO's rapid deployment force. It is normally closed to the public but they periodically hold tours, one of which was yesterday, a snowy Sunday afternoon.
The tour was offered through the Lille office of tourism. You have to sign up in advance and show up with an ID, which they take and hold in exchange for a visitor's badge that you wear throughout the tour. It was focused on the history of the Citadel and necessarily the history of Lille and was very interesting. Lille is located in the area known as Flanders, which has changed hands several times. At one time Flanders was itself a sovereign territory and it included part of what of now Belgium and the Netherlands. It has variously been held by Spain, Austria, and France over the centuries. Of course, the tour was conducted in French so I couldn't really follow what the guide was saying but Clay gave me occasional translations of the essential elements sotto voce.
Did I mention that it was snowing? It was one of the coldest days we've had for a while and the snow was coming down pretty fast in a strong wind. The tour guide gave a lot of the tour when we were in a couple of the indoor spaces included on the tour. It was very good. I have become very familiar with the structures outside the walls on my twice daily hikes with Bailey so it was nice to see things from the other side.
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